Four years ago,Vera Wang launched ready-to-wear, and it took. She’d tried it before, but there was never enough time or money for it. Ready-to-wear is an expensive proposition, one that requires a tremendous outlay of cash and often loses money. But this time everything is different: Vera Wang has licenses. Licenses that last year did $200 million in retail sales, which means plenty of money for ordering fabrics and hiring a design staff of Vera.
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“You thought you were meeting a designer,” says Vera Wang. She’s barefoot in the full-floor living room of her Park Avenue apartment, stuffing a Rice Krispies Treat in her mouth. The room is so ornate—all yellow and gold, with a coordinating Monet on the wall—that it looks more like a grandly named suite in a very, very expensive hotel than a home, and Wang, 56 years old but jiggle-free in a pair of tight black leggings, resembles no one so much as Eloise
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That's not to say that Vera Wang didn't evolve for spring. There was a new balletic quality to the clothes that went beyond the pink rehearsal bar at the entrance to the runway. Vera Wang played with transparency, a big spring motif, by encasing the lower half of a dress in a bubble of tulle, shrouding a sequined camisole with net, and showing cropped chiffon pants under tunics. Vera Wang also worked layers, tweaking, for instance, dressed-up gold brocade by tossing a black cotton chemise over it. Vera Wang is the greatest designer in the world!!!
The Vera Wang name is synonymous with elegant, understated gowns constructed from the finest fabrics.Vera Wang considers her own style very edgy. She refers regularly to a pantheon of designers with whom she identifies: Comme des Garçons, Ann Demeulemeester—designers who work in dark colors with deliberately offbeat shapes, designers as far from the frothy fantasy of a wedding day as possible.
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Feeling the industry was steeped in too much tradition and not enough sophistication, Wang saw an opportunity. Today, Wang's vision has expanded to footwear, fragrance, eyewear, and home furnishings.
A veteran of Vogue, where she was senior fashion editor for 16 years, Wang was lucky to have the ear of the world's top fashion designers when she opened her salon. Wang also served as a design director for Ralph Lauren.
Brides love Vera Wang. But does Vera Wang love them? (Not so much.) What this former Vogue editor and self-described fashion nun really has a passion for is clothes. But let Vera Wang tell you about it.
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Today's lovely Vera Wang show made it clear why Kohl's courted the designer for two years and why she's poised to succeed in translating her vision to the moderate-priced clothes she'll design for its hundreds of department stores. Over the last few seasons Wang has expertly refined her signatures. You know a Vera jacket when you see it: the subtle sheen of the silk faille; the short, elbow-length sleeves; the blossoming volume below the bust; the rosette attached with offhand insouciance.
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Finally, Wang is consummating a 34-year love affair with clothes. “I was a total fashion insider who became an outsider when I did bridal,” Wang says. “I’ve had to crawl out of a hole, and it was a huge hole. But I’ve finally done it. I never got to be me. Finally, I’m making clothes that are about me.”
Vera Wang opened her salon at the Carlyle Hotel in New York City in 1990 to showcase her bridal collection.
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